Pineapple and Pearls

Overview

What makes this “pearl” such a memorable dining experience is that the cooking is ambitious yet whimsical, and completely devoid of formality or fuss. Whether the bartender or Chef Silverman himself serves you, no one in this kitchen seems self-important. Your continued enjoyment is paramount—an honorable feat considering that you are in for a meal that occupies most of your night. The place may be packed, but the ambience is pleasant and very comfortable. Know that the prix fixe includes wine pairings, but guests seated at the bar may choose to order drinks à la carte instead. No matter where you land, dishes spark interest and service remains at its highest level. Begin your feast with a fennel bonbon set in demi-spheres of chocolate, served in an absinthe spoon, and set over a cocktail of sunchoke and absinthe. Garnished with celery leaves and fennel fronds, it's no wonder this composition is a surefire. Then a shallow bowl bearing cubes of smoked sturgeon stacked with beets, apple, leeks, and finished with lemon zest, chervil, and smoked sturgeon consommé is as beautiful as it is delicious. Desserts never fail to surprise, with delicacies like the wonderful Okinawan potato ice cream.