Coi

Overview

Chef Matthew Kirkley displays a distinct sense of artistry in his cooking, as if each plate were a portrait. Yet his precision and meticulous technique ensure that there is much more substance—and flavor—to Coi’s seafood-centric cuisine. Batons of bay leaf bavarois are topped with a thin layer of champagne gelée, meaty crab with pickled parsley leaves and pink grapefruit to garnish. A spritz of saltwater at the end lends a sense of brininess to the entire dish. Variations on Maine lobster include morsels of roasted tail meat and butter-poached claw, joined by foie gras terrine, wrapped in nori, and crowned with lobster roe and pickled red cabbage leaf. The tasting menu nicely transitions into inspired desserts, like the virtual solar system of chocolate orbs, filled with mandarin praline, crémeux, mousse, and more, beneath a whimsical “shooting star” of caramel crunch. Despite its location just blocks from the Broadway clubs, the vibe inside this dining room is hushed and Zen-like, thanks to low ceilings, soft lighting, and well-paced service. While thoughtful wine pairings are available, diners should also consider their innovative tea coupling, highlighting rare and aged blends.